'DORIA' Master's Project
‘"Doria’ is developed from local Indian cloth traditions, grounding joyous expressions to connect people with cultural elements through handloom ‘Kota Doria’. Over twenty meters of the fabric has been used in each skirt to create voluminous, playful pleated propositions, generating layers of lightweight fabric that form pleated shapes around the wearer."
Kota Doria craft has its individuality and exclusivity. Kota Doria gets its name from Kota, a place in Rajasthan (India), which is acclaimed for the weaving of Kota Doria sarees; while “Doria” means thread. Kota Doria craft is fabric which traditionally weaved for Sarris by Muslim Ansari community of the former Kota State, which still in practice.
However, this fascinating weave was invented/originated in Mysore (Indian old southern state) in the late 17th century, and a Mughal army general ‘Maharao Kishore Singh’ brought the weavers from Mysore to Rajasthan. These weavers called Masuria’s, and the Kota Doria saris have also called as Kota Masuria sarees Kota Doria (a desert fabric) saris are produced in towns and villages in and around Kota City. ‘Kota Saris’ are extremely lightweight and the lightest cotton saris available in India, as well as the fabric, were highly famous for turbans in central and south India (dry, hot and humid geographic regions). Traditionally cotton yarns are used in Kota Sari’s, but in the modern world of technology and innovation these saris are produced by other yarns in Silk and bamboo fibers, yet the cotton weaves are just breathtaking. Weaves comprise different yarn gauges that make a graph or mesh or check pattern which is known as ‘Khats.’ These saris are most appropriate for summer. ‘Kota Doria’ saris are very comfortable, airy and drape smoothly. It also Demands less care and maintenance.
The colors drive from the architecture/landscape where ‘Kota Doria’ is produced (KOTA-BUNDI) which has is Rustic ochre yellow/orange from the sedimentary architecture of massive castles, blue comes from the local residential building which is whitewashed and blue being the highlight of the landscape. The landscape of these
colors used in the project Doria is a combination of rustic colors and bright colors which convey the spiritual life experience of ones as Kota District being in the driest area/desert, colors have filled the life with bright future and joy.
Audio in the garments comes from the reflection of Indian classical dance and the accessories wore by camels in Rajasthan, India which helps to direct one's attention in the direction, hence project wants to create a pathway for local textiles to contemporary lifestyle which is getting lost to an extent due to fast fashion.
Glass beads come from Rajasthan’s mirror mosaic work known as ‘inlay’ which is done in colorful glass mirror and stones on the interior and exterior walls. The glass work represents a new beginning with its shine and symbolic shapes. The use of glass beads in the hems/seams of project propositions gives weight and sprinkling splash of colors which silently shine and merge with the Kota Dora Fabric, giving contemporary direction
while utilizing cultural context.